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Food review - The Wheatsheaf, Town Road, Croston

PUBLISHED: 14:29 20 February 2014 | UPDATED: 14:29 03 November 2017

The Wheatsheaf, Town Road, Croston

The Wheatsheaf, Town Road, Croston

not Archant

Review by by Cathy Midgley

The chocolate box village of Croston has a huge array of dining options and I was keen to discover if this historic community matched culinary quality with quantity?

We selected The Wheatsheaf pub and restaurant, in the heart of the village, adjacent to the traditional green.

On a cold day, I was struck by the warmth inside and then the hustle and bustle from a comfortable combination of locals and other ‘out of town’ diners.

The slate floors and oak furniture with plum and grey décor are a pleasing blend and the chocolate banquettes combine with more traditional seating creating a laid back, contemporary environment.

The welcome was friendly, particularly when pointing out the real ales, and our waitress was knowledgeable about the seasonal menu. A good start.

The Wheatsheaf has had its ups and downa but since 2011 it has been run by Jon Lilley and Becky Gleave. The kitchen team is headed by Jamie Oliver trained Liam Lang. The word on the cobbled streets of Croston is that The Wheatsheaf has now turned a corner.

I started with a beautifully tender confit duck leg with tasty but rather large apple mash on the side - one for those with larger appetites. Our second starter was a beetroot gravadlax accompanied by a zingy herb salad and roasted beetroot. This was the ‘crowd pleaser’ from the starters and left us ready for more surprises.

As a seafood buff my main course had a lot to live up to and the monkfish and scallop kebab delivered. With a subtle hint of tarragon, the delicate flavours came through. The second revelation of the evening and one of the most unforeseen delights was the deep fried feta sitting alongside the kebab. This was a joy, enhanced further with a tangy red pepper salsa dressing.

The ‘Big Boy’ pork chop ordered by my companion came with unexpected accompaniments of Bombay potato, crispy and spicy onion bhaji and a refreshing mango and apple chutney. It went some way to compensate for the slightly overdone chop, which was a little dry.

The enjoyable evening came to a perfect end as we dived into the shared toffee and chocolate mousse – rich and decadent.

The bill came in under £60, including a decent bottle of crisp Sauvignon Blanc. The Wheatsheaf is one to look out for when next passing through this picturesque Lancashire village.

The Wheatsheaf, Town Road, Croston, near Leyland, PR26 9RA.01772 600370 www.wheatsheaf-croston.com

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