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Restaurant review - 1847, Manchester

PUBLISHED: 00:00 19 January 2016 | UPDATED: 14:01 27 May 2016

Food at 1847 in Manchester

Food at 1847 in Manchester

Archant

Give vegetarian food a whirl at 1847 in Manchester urges Janet Reeder - you won’t be disappointed

Vegetarians are deemed to have a poorer quality of life (from my own experience brought on by bullying meat eaters who are quick to label us hippies, cranks or people with ‘an eating disorder).

They may now be eating their words as recent research has showed a link between cancer and the consumption of red meat. Suddenly, the ‘cranks’ are having the last laugh.

They also have every reason to feel pretty smug at 1847 the veggie restaurant in the heart of Manchester city centre.

1847 joins V Rev on Oldham Street and Greens in West Didsbury in offering the city’s vegetarians and vegans more inspiring choices than reheated lasagne but this mini chain really ups the ante with an array of exciting dishes, elegantly cooked with seasonal ingredients.

I met my friend ‘The Professor’ in the Salut Wines wine bar across the road from 1847 and by chance we were booted out of here early as they were hosting a wine tasting. By chance because arriving before 7pm we were able to take advantage of 1847’s champagne happy hour, a bottle of fizz for an irresistible £25.

We had been advised to book which I thought a bit rich for a Tuesday night but by 7.30pm nearly all the tables were full.

Owner Damien Davenport named the restaurant after the year the vegetarian society was set up in Altrincham. It has the cool vibe of an independent and this was the first in the chain, opening back in 2011. The decor is minimalist Scandi style with white tabletops a smattering of wood and not a joss stick or hippy chime in sight. The clientele were varied but mostly chic, young-ish and smart.

I started with squash and feta, a potently flavoured dish of sweet roasted squash, punchily seasoned wilted kale and to add texture and crunch crispy fried kale and roasted pumpkin seeds, dressed with whipped feta, while the Prof opted for the winter warmer - roasted parsnip soup given layers of complexity with additions of rosemary persillade, black sesame and sesame oil.

Mains included the beet bourguignon a sweet beetroot stew, enhanced by the contrasting sharp flavour of goat cheese and crispy sautéed potatoes, while the Prof tucked happily into merguez and mash, which turned out to be a flavour packed ‘sausage’ of filo pastry with a filling of earthy puy lentils and melting sage mashed potatoes.

Puddings were terrific too, especially the chocolate and pear, soft ganache, port poached pear and little wodges of gingerbread on the side. My chestnut pie was pretty good though. Cinnamon sable, chestnut mousse, eggnog syllabub and praline dust all added up to unctuous, sweet, creamy deliciousness.

The menu price is set at two courses for £19.50 and three courses for £25 and there’s an express lunch for a tenner - cheap enough for even the most committed carnivore to change their preconceptions to give vegetarianism a whirl.

58 Mosley Street, Manchester, M2 3HZ

0161 236 1811

by1847.com

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