<div style="display:inline;"> <img height="1" width="1" style="border-style:none;" alt="" src="//googleads.g.doubleclick.net/pagead/viewthroughconversion/1028731116/?value=0&amp;guid=ON&amp;script=0">
6 ISSUES FOR £6 Subscribe to Lancashire Life today click here

Restaurant Review - Fenwick Arms, Hornby Rd, Claughton, near Lancaster

PUBLISHED: 09:19 04 October 2013 | UPDATED: 21:41 19 January 2016

Fenwick Arms - Plaice

Fenwick Arms - Plaice

Archant

Lancashire Life award-winner Joycelyn Neve’s latest venture is quite a catch. Roger Borrell reports

Fenwick Arms - Crab Salad Fenwick Arms - Crab Salad

I once knew a woman who told me she couldn’t eat anything that had a face. ‘Does that include fish?’ I asked. How she grimaced. ‘What about a crab?’ She went puce. ‘Shrimps, mussels, oysters?’ She made like a small boy pretending to vomit into a bag.

I don’t think she fancied anything that came out of the sea unless it was David Beckham in Speedos. It’s a complaint that afflicts many (fear of fish, not the Becks thing). Vegetarians I can understand, but if you are prepared to eat greasy chicken flown across continents and served in a plastic bucket why not a lovely fresh, bright-eyed sea bass from Fleetwood?

This fear even has its own name: ichthyophobia. You can’t help but feel sorry for any ichthyophobiac who has gone through life without sampling the delights of eating hot fish and chips straight from the paper. So, if you are one of the afflicted, look away now because we are talking fish, and nothing but fish.

More prevalent than fear of fish is the fear of cooking it. It looks fiendishly complicated, probably because it all happens so quickly and there are no second chances. A bit like a row with the wife.

Fenwick Arms - Cod Fenwick Arms - Cod

Done well, it can knock spots off anything on four legs and if you want to see it done well head off to The Fenwick in the north Lancashire village of Claughton.

They say there is no such thing as bad publicity. But when Gordon Ramsay filmed an episode of Kitchen Nightmares here several years back, the excitable chef poured a vat of the pub’s gravy into a pothole on the A683. He argued it moved around so little that it was better suited to mending roads. This was the place where the campaign for real gravy was born and the place it died. Road kill.

This half-timbered roadside inn has now been given a new lease of life by The Seafood Pub Company. This expanding little empire is run by Joycelyn Neve, a surname instantly recognisable to anyone who knows the Fleetwood fishing industry.

The Fenwick has the décor of a classic dining pub with painted woodwork, quality mix and match furniture. The welcome is warm and attentive from a staff that is eager to please without being obsequious. We went though the specials board. A crab salad was fresh a fresh as a daisy, brought to life by a lovely light lemon mayonnaise. The second starter, my favourite, was an oily, unctuous fillet of mackerel with fresh orange wedges.

The main courses continued to impress. A plump, snow white piece of cod came perched on a terracotta dish of divinely soupy haricot beans and shredded ham hock while the show-stopper was a whole plaice freshly plucked from Morecambe Bay. This substantial chap was dressed to the nines with a set of peeled broad beans for buttons. A lovely earthy sauce almost had it flapping on the plate.

From start to finish, we had top class ingredients and excellent cooking. There was nothing fishy for dessert so we gave it a miss but it contained some good looking stuff, including a steamed syrup sponge. And, if any ichthyophobiacs have stayed with me to the end, there are meat and chicken dishes and just about enough for veggies to avoid malnutrition.

Fenwick Arms, Hornby Rd, Claughton, near Lancaster. LA2 9LA

0 comments

More from Food & Drink

Tue, 09:21

Our new columnist, Debby Donnelly-Addison is determined to fly the flag for produce from the county, as Emma Mayoh discovered

Read more
Tue, 09:19

Making the most of the last of the winter pears, this lightly spiced cake combines the gentle heat of ginger with the sharp sweetness of cream cheese.

Read more

Two mavericks of the food and drink world collided with beautiful results at The Art School, Liverpool, writes Rebekka O’grady.

Read more
Mon, 16:43

The Boho Baker shares her hearty dish that’s full of Lancashire goodness

Read more
Tuesday, January 2, 2018

Just back from the jungle, Jennie McAlpine on missing her family and serving tea fit for a queen. Mairead Mahon reports

Read more
Afternoon Tea Manchester
Friday, December 29, 2017

Gin tasting is increasing in popularity across the country, we round up some of the best events across Lancashire. Some of these events sell out fairly quickly, but the organisers do often host multiple events throughout the year.

Read more
Gin
Friday, December 29, 2017

Our guide to some of the best food and drink events in the county throughout 2018

Read more
Things to do in Lancashire Lancashire Food
Friday, December 29, 2017

John Loftus used to be tee-total. Now the farmer is making top quality gin with his son in law from his historic farm in Weeton. And it has exploded onto the market. Emma Mayoh reports

Read more
Gin
Tuesday, December 26, 2017

The latest Lancashire Life luncheon was staged in the magnificent setting of Samlesbury Hall.

Read more
Lancashire Life Luncheon
Friday, December 15, 2017

Lancashire cheese is perfect all year round but with so many brilliant makers which do you choose? Here is our guide to a few favourites

Read more
Cheese
Wednesday, December 13, 2017

We’ve compiled a guide of top tips from culinary experts to help you with your festive feast.

Read more
Christmas
Monday, December 11, 2017

Chefs, restaurateurs and food producers were honoured at this year’s prestigious Lancashire Life Food & Drink Awards. Emma Mayoh reports.

Read more
Monday, December 11, 2017

Meet the artisan chocolatier creating the perfect Christmas treats in Mawdesley. Emma Mayoh reports

Read more
Chocolate
 
Great British Holidays advert link

Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to the following newsletters:

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Subscribe or buy a mag today

Lancashire Life Application Link

Local Business Directory

Lancashire's trusted business finder

Job search in your local area



Property Search