One of the papers said scientists had concluded this it was the optimum time for suicides. Christmas was a distant memory, the sun doggedly refused to shine and the sudden arrival of the credit card bill persuaded many of us now was the time to sink into a warm bath and reach for the razor blades.

There's only one way out of a situation like this - go out and spend some more. As the bank manager sinks to his knees, follow up with a sharp kick to the ribs. Believe me, it's the only kind of language these people understand.

And what better way of spending your way out of the slough of despond than by booking a table at the Millstone Hotel in the lovely village of Mellor. As you step from the Stygian gloom into the lobby the first thing which confronts you is the host of awards collected over recent years by this former coaching inn. Pride of place goes to the two AA rosettes.

The bar area is buzzing with people having meals and the restaurant is a glorious period piece, full of original features (although a DIY manual for handymen on one of the bookshelves is a little disconcerting, especially for a diner with ten thumbs).

The set three-course menu costs £27.59. I started with a plate which combined some good quality smoked and potted salmon with a sharp shallot, caper and lemon vinaigrette plus homemade granary bread. My guest had carpaccio of New Forest venison with a rocket salad and walnut dressing. It was a winning combination.

Her main course of roast loin of cod on a bed of sweet potato with a prawn beurre blanc was well-cooked and probably didn't need the accompanying parsnip puree.

A char-grilled Bowland rib eye steak was a quality piece of meat so tender it could probably have been eaten with a spoon. And there were real chips to accompany it none of your six spud sticks built into an abstract art form.

There an interesting mix of puddings (and some excellent-sounding local cheeses). The rhubarb compote with crumble biscuits passed muster and, while the baked egg custard tart didn't move about much, it scored high on flavour.

The wine list is comprehensive and the staff seem like a genuinely nice bunch of people, who look after you without nagging every five minutes to see if 'everything's all right.' There was even a visit from the chef who did a quick tour of the dining room to make sure everything was up to scratch.

The Millstone is capable of lifting the gloom and with a meal for two plus two large glasses of wine coming in at a shade over £70 it might even bring a flicker of a smile to the face of your bank manager. But don't hold your breath.